Very simply one this, to raise a marquees temperature by 20degrees you require 1KW/3500BTU for 5 cubic metres.
- 4x4m Commercial DIY Marquee (average height is 2.5m) = 4x4x2.5 = 40 cubic metres so requires 8KW/28,000BTU’s
- 6x12m Commercial DIY Marquee (average height 2.5m) = 6x12x2.5 = 180 cubic metres so requires 36KW/126,000BTU’s
- 9x12m Deluxe DIY Marquee (average height 3.05m) = 9x12x3.05 = 329.4 cubic metres so requires 66KW/231,000BTU’s
Some things to point out:
- Most room thermostats are around the 20degree mark so if it’s below freezing outside allow for more heating
- If there are going to be lots of openings to the outside (rather than another marquee/the house) then allow for more heating
- If it’s a formal evening function (think ladies in evening dresses) then allow more heating
- Better to have several heat sources to create a more even room temperature than one large heat source which risks creating too hot and too cold areas in the marquee.
- If it’s an 18th birthday party where everyone will be drinking and/or dancing then you can probably allow less heating
In short, I would always treat this number as a bare minimum, much better to have more heating than required so it can be turned down than risk having a function ruined through lack of heat.
The sort of figures quoted here can only realistically be achieved using gas or diesel/oil powered heaters. Save yourself a headache and avoid using any electrically powered heaters or infra-red heaters. They’re fine for taking the chill off on a patio or outside a pub, they are inadequate (not to mention expensive to run) in a marquee of any decent size.
Thanks for reading.
Erecting winter marquees isn’t the most glamorous of jobs but it can still be enjoyable. The key is to allow more time for each one (compared to peak summer times).
Allowing more time for each marquee means:
- The work days can be shorter, if you’re not really busy then there’s no need to work very late
- Sites will naturally take more effort during the winter (clearing snow, weathering to buildings etc)
- Work can be done in shifts, the general winter practice was to put up the marquee then have a break as soon as the heater could be made operational. Suddenly with working heaters the marquee becomes a much more pleasant environment to work in for the flooring and linings etc (and you’re ‘just testing’ to make sure the heating is satisfactory for the customer)
- Maintenance will take a bit longer as everything’s likely to get wetter and muddier during the winter.
I’m aware I’m saying this from a warm comfortable indoor office but providing you are not in a hurry and you’ve got suitable clothing then winter marquees can be just as enjoyable as summer ones.
Thanks for reading
PS – check out our updated instructional videos page, we’ll be adding more videos to it over time
I was amazed recently when a quote for some kitchen parts we were shopping round for was quoted at a 66% discount. A week later and their offer was changed so we then qualified for a 75% discount. I think at that point my wife and I were supposed to be dancing round the room so excited at this bargain offer that we could barely read out our credit card number fast enough. We didn’t, we just went to another supplier who priced their goods honestly.
But there’s no denying that this method works so is it something you should consider? There are two things to think about: target market and the moral dilemma.
Target market: If you have or would like to get a lot of repeat marquee business then someone who inspects your prices regularly at different times of the year is likely to notice your 12 month sale technique. If your target market is one-off events then customers are only likely to view your prices once so will think the sale is genuine.
The moral dilemma: You are essentially being dishonest, you will gain direct business from this technique but then do you lose business from a loss of credibility and/or trust?
It’s your choice, we didn’t use the technique as a hire company and don’t as a marquee sales company but I can tell you we lose business to competitors who do have 12 month sales on inflated RRP’s so can you afford not to?
Thanks for reading
When starting a marquee hire business one big consideration is where are you going to store all of these nice shiny (hopefully DIY) marquees?
Well the good news is initially you don’t need a lot of storage space, in a single garage you could fit 5 typical marquees including associated equipment. Any more than that and it will become difficult to work around. A couple of caveats to that – it assumes that you’ve got some racking to put everything on (neatly or in our storage bags/boxes) and it assumes you’re not storing any furniture. Furniture will often take up as much room as the marquees themselves so choosing whether to buy or cross-hire initially is a big early decision to make.
Another alternative I like is to use a trailer for storage, the reason for this is you’re not having to unload and load it every time it just stays there between jobs. Obviously only suitable for when you’re small and starting out but a handy time-saver especially if you’re starting it as a part-time project.
What you do not need is a state-of-the-art modern industrial building, they cost a lot in rent and rates and you can get more for your money renting a barn or container space in a remote area. Once you’ve established your market then this is the sort of storage that we’d recommend, you just need somewhere large and dry to keep everything in with good access for your van/trailer/lorry.
Quite how the government expect businesses to grow us out of recession when business rates for industrial units are often more than the rent I don’t know.
Thanks for reading.
A walkway is used when you can’t butt the end of the marquee up against the house as in part i (posted 2 weeks ago). It might be the marquee has to go side on to the house or simply set back a bit. Walkways are very easy and simple things but here are some thoughts on using them:
- Put the walkway up first then build the marquee butting up to the walkway. Trying to fill a gap between a marquee and the house is a tricky tricky task
- Butt the walkway up against the house tightly, you may need to remove the gable to allow the door to open outwards
- If you’re using one of our walkways then we now include an extra gable with a gutter built-in to make weathering to a marquee easier and quicker
- Be sure to anchor the walkway down (sounds obvious but I’ve seen it forgotten as everyone concentrates on the marquee)
- In winter months allow for heating the walkway. If it’s very short it may just be angling one of the marquee heaters towards the walkway rather than having it’s own dedicated heater but you must incorporate the walkway in to your heating plan
How much you charge for a walkway is again a tricky issue. As much as we’ve made it as simple as possible you are effectively putting up another (small) marquee and need to charge accordingly. Often this is far more than a customer expects, especially when the marquee is a long way from the house and they say they’d like a ‘simple cover’ to the marquee.
Thanks for reading
The next category is weathering a marquee to a house that has to be positioned side-on and you don’t have the use of a walkway.
It is much easier using a walkway (as I’ll write about next week) especially one of ours! But not everyone has one so sometimes you just have to make do with what you’ve got.
Option 1: Butting the marquee hard up against the house
Similar to last weeks method you push the marquee hard up against the house but it’s the type and size of doors that gives you a headache:
- sliding patio doors are the easiest, this means you can butt the marquee up at whatever height and put some guttering across to weather the join. The downside is that there is likely to be a step down in to the marquee and people might knock their head on the eave rail or gutter.
- patio doors that open inwards can be treated like sliding doors as above
- patio doors that open outwards are the most common and are frankly a pain. You have 3 options, 1 is to use a walkway (see next week), next is to create your own walkway (see below) and the third is to somehow lift the marquee up over the doors. If you’re using one of our deluxe marquees then there’s every chance it will be high enough but on a standard commercial one it’s likely to need ‘chocking up’ a bit using bricks or extensions. This should only really be as a last resort because the marquees aren’t designed to be chocked up and it changes the angle of the roof which can affect the water run-off
Option 2: Creating your own walkway:
If the house has got a pair of outward opening doors then we would sometimes use them to create a walkway – have the doors open at 90 degrees to the house and then place a piece of wood over the top, ideally with chocks to hold the doors in place and a slight angle so if it rains the water goes away from the house. This made a very short easy walkway to then butt and weather the marquee to.
Pretty much all of these methods are just to get by, the best method (if possible) is last weeks option of having the end of a marquee against the house and if you can’t do that then using a decent walkway (again see next weeks blog) will be a LOT easier and look more professional.
Thanks for reading.
The easiest and indeed the best way to weather a house is by positioning the end of the marquee (the 4m or 6m side) against the building. This is because:
- It genuinely creates an extra room to the house (the goal of most marquees attaching to a house) without going through a corridor/walkway or similar
- The apex design of most marquees means that water comes off the sides of the marquee, very little comes down the end because it is a flat gable. If you orientate the marquee like this then it requires very little weathering/guttering – generally you can just pull the flap of the roof up and clip it to the guttering of the house
- There is no eaves rail in the end of the marquee, this means you can generally lift the gable of the roof up and over any door opening in to the marquee
- Tie downs are always attached to the sides of marquees, even if the marquee is on a patio there are often flower beds or fence posts at the sides of the garden to use for anchoring points
Some other points:
- Ensure some of the tie downs are angled towards the house, it is very easy to attach all of the tie downs at an angle away from the house without realising it which would allow the marquee to move. If there are solid fixings on the house (cast iron not plastic downpipes for example) then by all means attach on to them to anchor the marquee down
- A house will often have an overhanging gutter so the marquee won’t go hard up against the house. In my experience it’s best to leave all of the sides off facing the house (especially if there’s a window that can look out in to the marquee) and block in the gaps either side to keep in the warmth. How to block in these gaps:
- Cover one end of a groundbar or similar length pole with gaffa tape (if you don’t have this in your van as standard then you can’t call yourself a true marquee erector!)
- Hold the pole up to the eave rail at the end of the marquee and very loosely cable tie in place (c’mon, you must have cable ties!) with the taped end towards the house
- Push the pole towards the house until it’s touching (the tape prevents you scratching or damaging the customers house) and then tighten up all of the cable ties to hold the pipe in place
- To actually fill the gap attach a wall or window to the corner of the marquee as usual by bungee-ing to the leg but cable tie the top of the wall to the jutting out part of the pole you’ve just fixed in place keeping all of the slack towards the house
- Go and find something heavy in the garden (plant pots are good) and rest on the rain skirt of the wall tight up against the house – this keeps the bottom in place
- Unless you are incredibly lucky and there’s something on the house to cable tie the marquee wall to then that’s about the best you can do
Thanks for reading, I’ll run through the other methods soon
PS Tim from the excellent OakLeaf Marquees sent me a link to this funny marquee-related youtube clip
Thank you to everyone who visited us at the show. I think this is the bit where I’m supposed to say the show was FANTASTIC and as usual our stand was THE BUSIEST AROUND and how it shows we’re the BEST marquee supplier in the world. Ever. So there.
Honestly? The show was very quiet this year. I’m not sure if it was the bad weather forecast that never really materialised or a sign that the industry is only looking to consolidate. Where in previous years there were crowds in each aisle this year it was only drifts of people, the site on both days seemed a bit quieter than usual. There were also a few gaps in the exhibitor stands.
Fortunately we only really use the show as a meet and greet for existing and future customers not as a sales stand so we just spend 2 days talking about marquees 🙂
I didn’t get much chance for a walk around but these ex-London Games plastic tables from Best Contract Furniture seem very cheap and worth a look.
Thanks for reading, it’ll be back to (hopefully) useful advice next week. Maybe something on different ways to weather a marquee to a house as that’s becoming increasingly relevant this time of year.
Thanks for reading
Electrics for a marquee are generally straight forward affairs, especially the way that we now wire up lighting. Everything is supplied with 16amp blue plugs and sockets that just daisy-chain around the marquee.
We would usually run all of the electrics around the marquee and then run the power supply lead across to the house. A 13amp RCD adapter should always be used to plug in to a house, as standard this will then be wired up to a 16amp blue socket ready to connect to the plug coming from the marquee. But what if you’ve run all of the leads around the marquee the wrong way round and end up with a 16amp socket towards the house rather than a 16amp blue plug?
- a – cut down all of the leads in the marquee and pain-stakingly attach them all back up again the correct way round
- or b – the much quicker and easier method of just taking off that 16amp socket and swap if for a plug so it all connects up easily?
You must must must always do a. Just take the time and run the leads the right way round. No matter how pressed for time you may be do not ever start swapping sockets for plugs. Louise (have fun on maternity leave) from Essential Supplies refers to them as widow-makers because they are just so dangerous. If you think about what happens when the lead is plugged in if anyone were to unplug a join it would be the plug that’s live, ie those large metal prongs sticking out would be like open live wires.
As I say electrics and lighting in marquees are very easy, safe and straight-forward as long as you don’t start taking anything apart. Just keep it simple.
Our demo marquee is up for sale on eBay: ex-demo DIY Marquee
There probably won’t be a blog next week as we’ll be down setting up at The Showmans Show.
Thanks for reading, hope to see you next week at the show
The design of marquee dance floors are all very similar, battens across the back and small battens/teeth at one end. This enables the dance floor to lay nicely and each board to lock in with each other:
Back of dance floor board
There are a few issues with storing and transporting dance floors. If not stored correctly the surface can get damaged, if not stacked correctly the pile can be unstable (a pile of dance floor tipping over in a van is not good for the heart-rate) and a damp dance floor left in store can become mouldy or warped.
So this is what we did for all of our dance floors:
We would always try to transport dance floor boards face-to-face, that way you protect the surface. Carrying them in pairs helps this process but it depends on the muscle power available.
In transit we would stagger the pairs of boards so one pair had teeth at one end whilst the next pair had teeth at the other (see diagram above), this way the dance floor is nice and compact but still laying flat.
When storing the boards away we would use a slightly different system of putting the boards batten on top of batten (it’s not incredibly clear by my dodgy diagram but all battens should line up on top of each other!). The idea of this is that the boards are still flat and still stacked surface-to-surface but the larger gap allows more air around the wood -this allows the wood to dry out and ultimately will last longer before needing replacement.
Thanks for reading